There is a moment just before dawn on Huangshan—the Yellow Mountains—when the world holds its breath. The sky is a deep, bruised violet, and the jagged peaks of granite pierce the clouds like the spines of ancient dragons. You are standing on a narrow ledge, shivering in the cold mountain air, surro
There is something magical about the way the day softens in the Huangshan region. As the sun dips behind the jagged granite peaks of the Yellow Mountains, a cool breeze rolls down from the cloud-shrouded summits, carrying with it the scent of pine and wet stone. For the traveler who has spent the da